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No Hat Upon His Head

From Hamlet - Act II Scene i

Ophelia: O, my lord, my lord, I have been so affrighted!

Lord Polonius: With what, i' the name of God?

Ophelia: My lord, as I was sewing in my closet,
Lord Hamlet, with his doublet all unbraced;
No hat upon his head; his stockings foul'd,
Ungarter'd, and down-gyved to his ankle;
Pale as his shirt; his knees knocking each other;
And with a look so piteous in purport
As if he had been loosed out of hell
To speak of horrors—he comes before me.

 

The purpose of this page is to encourage my fellow SCAdians to put something on their heads, especially the men and boys. Show up with a bare head, and folks will think you mad, as did the poor Ophelia.

Besides, once you put a hat on, the rest of the garb is so much more convincing. Most of them are not that hard to make and many are simpler than a T-tunic.


(This section will have more thumbnails of the images. Ignore the many redundant descriptions for now.
The asterisks are merely notes to myself about obtaining images) Most image links without thumbnails will take you to another site with that image on it.

Men's Headwear In Period Art

Chaperons as hoods and turban-style. Roll hats - ones that are probably not chaperons Little Round Caps pillbox style, with no brims
Flat caps typical Tudor Caps with narrow upturned brims Phrygian caps (Smurf hats)
Bag hats Ecclesiastical hats and caps Broad-brimmed
Coifs   Miscellaneous and multiple styles

Women's Headwear

In SCA Period Art    |   17th Century


Chaperons

Lorenzo De' Medici 1478/1521 Painted terracotta

Florentine 15th or 16th Century, probably after a model by Andrea del Verrocchio and Orsino Benintendi

Lorenzo De Medici "Il Magnifico"

This is my favourite method of wearing a chaperon.

Lorenzo II De Medici
Lorenzo Il Magnifico - drawing by Leonardo da Vinci?

Portrait of A Man c. 1430. by Robert Campin.

Looks like a big chaperon, with the liripipe completely hidden inside the roll.

Jan van Eyck. Man in a Blue Turban. - Olga's Gallery Jan van Eyck. Man in a Blue Turban. 1430-1433. Oil on wood. Art Museum, Bucharest, Romania.

Portrait of a Young Man 1432. by Jan van Eyck. Portrait of a Young Man. Oil on wood. The National Gallery, London, UK.

See also image version with enhanced shadow detail.

Chaperon with hanging liripipe and shoulder part draped to left and back.

Portrait of a Young Man c.1470-1473.

by Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Young Man.Tempera on panel. Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina, Florence, Italy.

Man in a Red Turban 1433. by Jan van Eyck.�

One of my favourites. It says "turban", but it's actually a chaperon, wrapped in an unusual manner. (Sorry, I forget where I read that.) I'd love to figure out how it's done.

Jan van Eyck. Giovanni Arnolfini - Olga's Gallery Jan van Eyck. Giovanni Arnolfini. 1434.Oil on wood. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemaldegalerie, Berlin, Germany.

Giotto. Detail of Five Masters of the Florentine Renaissance (or Fathers of Perspective) by Paolo Ucello The work is belived to be begun by Uccello, but finished later by another painter

Possibly not a chaperon, but more of a rolled band with a top that drapes down the left, back, and right.

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Roll Hats

Healing of Cripple and the Raising of Tabitha (detail) 1424-25 by Masolino.

Odd roll-hats?

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Little Round Pillbox Caps

Portrait of Carlo de'Medici ca. 1467

by Andrea Mantegna

Jean Fouquet. Portrait of the Ferrara Court Jester Gonella. [red cap with fur trim]Jean Fouquet. Portrait of the Ferrara Court Jester Gonella. c. 1442. Tempera on wood. Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna, Austria
Note also that he is wearing wire hook-and-eye fasteners on his collar, which appear to be identical to the kind you can buy in the notions section of any fabric or sewing supplies store.
Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Man with the Medal of Cosmo the Elder. [red cap]Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Man with the Medal of Cosmo the Elder. c.1474-1475. Tempera on panel. Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence, Italy.
Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Youth. [red cap]Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Youth. 1480s. Tempera on panel. The National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA.
Filippino Lippi. Portrait of a Youth. [red cap, dark houppe] Filippino Lippi. Portrait of a Youth. c.1485. Tempera on panel. The National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC, USA.
Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Young Man. [red cap. also see tunic] Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of a Young Man. c.1485. Tempera on panel. National Gallery, London, UK.

 

Right half: Portrait of Federico da Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino 1465-66 by Piero della Francesca

See also the left half, below.

New information, April 2006 - it has a name, according to this excerpt from The Book of Costume Vol. I, by Millia Davenport:
"...high flattop hat seen on the elders of the Gonzaga and Montfeltro [sic], and is sometimes called the "ducal mortier". Check out this detail of a Mantegna fresco.

April 13, 2008 - I've almost finished making one for myself. See Hew's Ducal Mortier Project.

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Flat Caps, Tudor Caps

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Narrow brim caps

Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Dr. Johannes Cuspinian. [red cap] Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Dr. Johannes Cuspinian. 1502-1503. Oil on panel. Dr. Oskar Reinhart Collection, Winterthur, Germany.

The Deeds of the Antichrist (detail). 1499-1502
by Luca Signorelli.
Fresco. Orvieto Cathedral, San Brizio Chapel, Orvieto, Italy.

brown narrow-brimmed cap

Pietro Perugino. Portrait of a Young Man. [dark, cap with "earflaps"] Portrait of a Young Man. 1495-1500. Oil on canvas, transferred from panel. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg.
Portrait of a Man with an Apple. (possibly Francesco Maria della Rovere), 1503-04, by Raphael.

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Phrygian caps

   

 

   

Papa Smurf

Well, who really knows how long Smurfs have been around?
It does look like a Phrygian cap. Smurf hats are all white, except for Papa Smurf's.

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Bag Hats

Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Martin Luther Wearing the Cap of Doctor of Theology. - Olga's Gallery Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Martin Luther Wearing the Cap of Doctor of Theology. 1521. Copper engraving. Kunstsammlungen zu Weimar, Weimar, Germany.

 

Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of Dante. [red hood over coif, plus wreath] Alessandro Botticelli. Portrait of Dante. c.1495. Tempera on canvas. Private collection, Geneva, Switzerland.

 

Andrea del Castagno. Dante Allighieri. [long houppe, bag hat and coif] Andrea del Castagno. Dante Allighieri. From the Cycle of Famous Men and Women. c. 1450. Detached fresco. 250 x 154 cm. Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence, Italy.

 

Andrea del Castagno. Farinata degli Uberti. [bag hat, armour, pleated tabard?] Andrea del Castagno. Farinata degli Uberti. From the Cycle of Famous Men and Women. c. 1448. Fresco transferred to wood. 250 x 154 cm. Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence, Italy.

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Ecclestiastical

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Broad-brimmed

Jean Fouquet. Portrait of Charles VII, King of France. [big blue hat, - bargello?]Jean Fouquet. Portrait of Charles VII, (1403-61) King of France. 1447? Tempera on wood. Louvre, Paris, France.

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Coifs

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Miscellaneous

Bust of an Old Man in a Fur Cap, 1630 by Rembrandt (Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn)

 

A Turkish Janissary c.1429-1507 by Gentile Bellini

(memo to self: must get permission to use photo of Baron Alejandro's portrayal of that drawing)

 

Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Henry the Devout of Saxony. [northern renn, landsknecht] Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Henry the Devout of Saxony. 1514. Oil on wood. Dresden Gallery, Dresden, Germany.

 

Pieter Brueghel - Peasant Dance

 

Philip II of Spain by Cruz, Juan Pantoja de la (Spanish, 1553-1608)

 

 

Market Scene by Pieter Aertsen, undated, c. 1550

Wide-brimmed high crown black (felt?) hat
Two round red caps in background
Straw hat
Woman in foreground with something braided in her hair

 

 

The Cardsharps (I Bari)

ca. 1595 by Caravaggio

 

Vittore Carpaccio. Healing of a Madman. -detail [many hats and houppes] Vittore Carpaccio. Healing of a Madman. Detail. 1494. Canvas. 365 x 389 cm. Galleria dell'Accademia, Venice, Italy.

 

The Gonzaga Family and Retinue. [detail] 1465-74 by Andrea Mantegna. Fresco. Palazzo Ducale, Camera degli Sposi (Bridal Chamber), Mantua, Italy.

 

St. Sebastian [detail] c. 1475-76. by Antonello da Messina.

 

St. Eligius, 1449, by Petrus Christus. ( "... a leading master of early Netherlandish painting. Known to have been in Bruges before 1440, Christus was probably apprenticed to Jan van Eyck.")

Check out that double hennin.

detail of St. Eligius with enhanced shadows to show something of the structure of the headwear of the middle figure.

I think it might be a chaperon? Part of the window and the curtains behind him confuse it a bit.

 

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Women's Headwear In Period Art

This section is somewhat thin, since much of women's headwear is integrated with elaborate hair styles and braiding.

Left half: Portrait of Battista Sforza, Duchess of Urbino 1465-66 Piero della Francesca

See also the right half, above.

La Fornarina ca. 1516 by Raphael (Raffaello Sanzio, but now thought to have possibly been painted by one of his pupils).

A turban-like wrap, with pearl or pearl-type bead.

Portrait of Laura de Dianti ca. 1523 by Titian.

Portrait of Eleonora Gonzaga della Rovere 1536-1537 by Titian

Portrait of a Gentlewoman or Portrait of a Lady 1517-19 by Correggio, (Antonio Allegri)

Are these braids with ribbons woven around them?

der Hardegger from the Manesse Manuscript, aka Gro�e Heidelberger Liederhandschrift, compiled in Z�rich, Switzerland, first quarter of 14th century.

 

  Manesse: die Winsbekin and Her Daughter [barbette?]

 

  Young Woman by Petrus Christus, 1446

 

  Lady by van der Weyden, probably 1450s

 

  Lady by Fra Filippo Lippi, 2nd quarter

 

  Marie de Bourgogne, anonymous, after 1482

 

  Donor by the Master of Moulins, c1490

 

  Margarethe of Austria by Hey, c1490

 

  Dorothea Kannengießer by Holbein d. J., 1516

 

  Fançoise Brézé, Duchesse de Buillon by François Clouet, 1550

 

  Leonardo da Vinci. Portrait of an Unknown Woman [thin headband]

 

  Leonardo da Vinci. Madonna Litta.

 

  Leonardo da Vinci. Portrait of Cecilia Gallerani [thin headband and ?coif?]

 

  Raphael. Portrait of a Pregnant Woman.[snood]

 

  Raphael. La Donna Velata.- Olga's Gallery

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Women's Headwear - 17th Century

A bit late for the SCA Period, but some interesting examples nevertheless

Rembrandt's Mother, 1639 Rembrandt (Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn)

Portrait of Saskia 1633 by Rembrandt (Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn)

Girl with a Pearl Earring 1665, by Jan Vermeer

"Pearls are linked with vanity but also with virginity - a wide enough iconographic spectrum. The most beautiful pearl in Vermeer's work is undoubtedly that worn by the Girl with a Pearl Earring - a massive creation of highlights and shadows and obscure shadows. The largest know pearl with a perfect skin or "orient" had a circumference of 4 1/2 inches. Artificial pearls were invented by M. Jacquin in France around this time, thin spheres of glass filled with l'essence d'orient, a preparation made of white wax and silvery scales of a river fish called ablette, or bleak, but cultured pearls were also coming in from Venice. This girl of Vermeer's seems to be wearing a glass "drop earring" which has been varnished to look like an immense pearl; such earrings were currently fashionable in Holland, as we see in paintings by Van Mieris, Metsu and Terborch. But Vermeer's pearl is probably doubly artificial, having been enlarged to such a size by the painter's imagination and desire to adorn the girl with something spectacular."
- Anthony Bailey, Vermeer: A View of Delft,�� New York, 2001,� pp. 123-124

Read more about this painting at http://girl-with-a-pearl-earring.20m.com/

The Procuress (detail) 1656 by Jan Vermeer. Note the cool hat the guy has.

full image (235 kB)

Young Woman With a Water Jug (detail) c.1664-1665 by Jan Vermeer

Full Image (99kB)

Girl with a Flute (detail) 1666-67 by Jan Vermeer

I included this one because of the unusual shape.

Full image here, at the Web Museum of Art

 


Unsorted or waiting for images

 

  Raphael. Portrait of a Cardinal. [square cap] Portrait of a Cardinal, 1510, oil on panel, Museo del Prado at Madrid

 

  Raphael. Portrait of Tommaso Inghirami. [red bag hat?],� Portrait of Tommaso Inghirami. c.1511. Oil on panel. Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina, Florence, Italy. (or "Portrait of Fedra Inghirami"?)

 

  Raphael. Portrait of Pope Julius II. [red cap, fur-lined?] Raphael.� Portrait of Pope Julius II. c.1512. Oil on panel. National Gallery, London, UK.

 

  Raphael. Portrait of Cardinal Bernardo Dovizi Bibbiena Raphael.� Portrait of Cardinal Bernardo Dovizi Bibbiena. c.1514-1516. Oil on canvas. Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina, Florence, Italy.

 

  Raphael. Portrait of Bindo Altoviti. Raphael. Portrait of Bindo Altoviti. c.1515. Oil on wood. The National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

 

  Titian. Portrait of a Man. [beret?] Titian. Portrait of a Man. 1514. Oil on canvas. Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence, Italy.

 

  Titian. Portrait of Ippolito de' Medici. [cap with feathers?] Titian. Portrait of Ippolito de' Medici. 1533. Oil on canvas. Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina, Florence, Italy.

 

  Titian. Portrait of Francis I. [flat cap with feather/fur trim?]

 

  Titian. Portrait of Doge Andrea Gritti. [phrygian cap] Titian. Portrait of Doge Andrea Gritti. c.1545. Oil on canvas. The National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC, USA.�
  Titian. Portrait of Doge Andrea Gritti Same painting, different photo.

 

  Doge Antonio Grimani Kneeling before the Faith, 1575-76, Doges' Palace, Venice. (note that the white cap is separate from the Phrygian-style cap)

 

  Titian. Portrait of Emperor Charles V Seated. [black flat cap]

 

  Titian. Portrait of Pope Paul III without a Cap. [heh - no cap]
  Titian. Portrait of Pope Paul III. [this time with a cap]

 

  Titian. Pope Paul III and His Grandsons Ottavio and Cardinal Alessandro Farnese. [two different ecclesiastical hats]

 

  Titian. Portrait of Doge Marcantonio Trevisani. [phrygian]

 

  Titian. Portrait of Doge Francesco Venier. [phrygian]

 

  Correggio. Portrait of a Young Man. [black flat cap]

 

  El Greco. Portrait of a Cardinal. -[birettta?]

 

  El Greco. The Marriage of the Virgin. [mitre with fore-and-aft split?]

 

  Rembrandt. A Turk. [turban, feather]

 

  Rembrandt. The Amsterdam Merchant Nicolaes Ruts. [fur hat?]

 

  Rembrandt. Albert Cuyper. [broad-brimmed felt? hat]

 

  Rembrandt. Self-Portrait with a Gold Chain. [bag cap with short bill?]

 

  Anthony van Dyck. Sir Robert Sherly.[big oriental turban]

 

 

Bertrand with the Sword of the Constable of France by Fouquet, probably 1450s [bag hats with rolls]

 

  Albrecht Durrer - Self-Portrait, 1498 [black and white stripes]

 

  Procession in the Piazza San Marco by Gentile Bellini, 1496[lotsa pillboxes, some w feathers]

 

  Ludwig von Löwenstein by Hans Baldung Grien, 1513 [red cap, w compass pin?]**

 

Pieter Brueghel - Peasant Wedding
  detail 1
  detail 2

 

Charles IX by Clouet **

 

  Pierre II- Duke of Bourbon, Presented by St. Peter, 1492-93, by Jean Hey (Master of Moulins)

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Hat Patterns and How-tos

Some Headwear of the Middle Ages - Hoods, Chaperons and Liripipes

How to make a Coif [arming cap - Cynthia Virtue]

The English Hood [gable, kennel or pedimental headdress]

Costuming101- The Cowl

How to Make a Renaissance Hat [flat cap]

The Auld Garb Monger's Cavalier Hat Project, Chapter One

http://garbmonger.tripod.com/flatcap/index.html

Some Clothing of the Middle Ages -- Headwear Marc Carlson's site

The Phrygian Cap

Þóra's Basic Viking Hat

To Make A Simple Mongol Hat


Merchants

I make no pronouncements about the service or quality of goods from the merchants listed here. This is just what I've come across in my wanderings.

Syke's Sutlery - Clothing Scroll down about 1/3 to "Hatware" section. of particular interest are the Elizabethan flatcap, Elizabethan dress hat, in the "sugarloaf" and "top hat" style, and (no photos unfortunately) Hat blanks, 4" crown, 5" brim, heavy black felt only.,

By My Hand Design - Check out the "Chaplets"

Gipsy Peddler - Hats Pins and Feathers Has wide-brimmed Cavalier-style hats, plus ostrich, peacock, and phesant feathers.

Medieval Design- Hats A variety of hoods and Italian hats. Italian merchant, with prices in Euros.


The rest needs a lot of work to make any sort of sense...


 

Taming of the Shrew: Entire Play [has hat quotes]

Aénor's Treatise on 12th Century Costuming Felting Dictionary

La Couturière Parisienne

The Costumer's Manifesto: Your Free One-stop Site for Costume Information & Images

The Costumer's Manifesto: Medieval European Costume Links Page


Art & Photo Galleries

Men's Clothing [venetians]

Medieval Clothing Pages: Articles by Cynthia Virtue

Timeline of Costume: 15th Century Northern Europe (1400 to 1500ce) pg2

Timeline of Costume History: Main Page


Scots Clothing Quotes

Scottish Women's Clothing

Celtic Dress of the 16th C.

The True Story of What the Irish Wore

Reconstructing History — Fashion in the 17th century

Reconstructing History — Scottish Historical Clothing Research

DawnPages -- Historic Costumes

Saverio's Experimental Archaeology Page [incl leinte and brat]

 

Piero della Francesca [urbino]

Armour

Leonardo da Vinci. Antique Warrior. [fantasy helm? parade armour?]

Roman Equipment [Legio XXX]

Armor [Jomsborg]

The Armory [glossary of helms]

The Helmet Project [rapier helm mods]

75years - Great Helms

Bladeturner Armoury [patterns]

Grimm Armoury - Armour Gallery


Period Art

Web Gallery of Art - a virtual museum and searchable database of European painting and sculpture of the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods (1100-1850), currently containing over 13,900 fairly high-resolution reproductions. Commentaries on pictures, biographies of artists are available.

Olga's Gallery - Online Art Museum.

CFGA index - artists by name or by nationality and time

Das Hausbuch der Mendelschen Zw�lfbr�derstiftung in N�rnberg A collection of 15th and 16 Century drawings of people in various professions, particularly in the construction and metal-working trades. (German)
Google Translation to English.

La Couturi�re Parisienne Costume and Fashion Site

Straw Hats in Medieval and Renaissance Works of Art


Miscellaneous to go through

Pirate Image Archive

The Principality of Northshield's Arts and Sciences - Homepage

Medieval Russia -- Dress -- "Dress Among the Rus'"

Revival Clothing

Rubakha Pattern

Russian garb

Medieval Russia -- "Mordak's Garb Packet"

Life in 13th Century Novgorod -- Clothing

Medieval Russia -- Dress -- "Dress Among the Rus'"

MAX TILKE: ORIENTAL COSTUMES THEIR DESIGNS AND COLORS


Hew's Medieval Stuff <